Typically, finger and thumb brakes apply pressure to the front wheel, and foot brakes apply pressure to the back wheel. It’s up to the rider to find which braking method he or she prefers — and when it comes to racing, some of that preference comes down to what’s more comfortable to the rider in a particular situation.

For instance, as MotoGP Race Engineer Mattia Tombolan from Brembo explains, “When you are turning on the right side, it’s difficult to use the thumb brake, so [racers] prefer the finger over the thumb to adjust the trajectory inside the turn.”

Front brakes put all the momentum to the front of the bike when going into a corner. When this happens, the rear brake is used to stabilize the bike and correct its trajectory through a corner.

Given the importance of braking, especially when riding a motorcycle, customers want to be assured that their brakes will work for their unique riding styles, especially since the stopping power of different brakes varies. So, what makes a quality brake? Let’s take an in-depth look at the science behind them.

Materials: Iron vs. Steel vs. Carbon

Starting with a brake’s most basic components, different materials are used to make brakes based on their intended use. Some brake manufacturers have even developed eco-friendly brakes that are better for the environment.

“The innovative new compound is iron-based,” says SBS Brakes Product and Marketing Manager Thomas Midtgaard-Jorgensen. “Besides being the better alternative for the environment, you get an improved brake performance, friction coefficient and heat tolerance compared to traditional compounds.”

In motorcycle racing, the two main brake materials are steel and carbon. Classes like WSBK and WorldSSP race with steel-based brakes. On the other hand, MotoGP teams are starting to prefer carbon over steel. Tombolan says they have several benefits over steel brakes.

“The part where the carbon disc is more effective is where the heat dissipation [takes] place, because due to the properties of the carbon material itself, it can absorb a lot of heat more than the steel, but it’s able to dissipate it very quickly,” Tombolan explains. “If I want to have the same level of dissipation with the steel, I should have a very big disc [that’s] heavier.”

A brake’s weight and mass on a MotoGP bike influence its movement and rotation through corners. The lighter-weight carbon brakes help a bike’s handling and can help shave off seconds from MotoGP lap times. A bigger brake will take more force to slow it down, which could also affect turning.

“A brake disc, of course, has a mass that adds to the total weight of the bike, and that weight is moving and rotating,” says Tombolan. “This gives a gyroscopic effect that increases the stability of the bike. If you have a higher inertia on the brake disc, it will be more difficult for you to turn the bike. When you have a light brake disc, you can easily do this.”

Therefore, Tombolan says the ideal brake will have a low mass and a low inertia to help a motorcycle get faster lap times.

Temperature

As mentioned before, Midtgaard-Jorgensen and Tombolan both highlight temperature as a pivotal element in motorcycle and powersports brakes. It affects the materials, efficiency and longevity of brakes.

“There is a direct link between heat and brake power,” says Midtgaard-Jorgensen. “If the system gets overheated, it may also cause the caliper to break. If it is too cold, you will not get the right grip and you may also risk glazing the brake pad.”

Each brake material has an ideal temperature of use. The newer, eco-friendly brakes typically fall into a heat range of 212 to 572 degrees Fahrenheit (100 to 300 degrees Celsius) during normal usage. “[They] do have a capability of transporting heat more efficiently away from the friction material, as iron transmits heat better than traditional friction materials,” claims Midtgaard-Jorgensen.

As for MotoGP brakes, their average temperature sits between 500 and 600 degrees Fahrenheit (260 to 315.56 degrees Celsius) during a lap. Tombolan says these brakes have a maximum operating temperature of 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit (537.8 degrees Celsius). Going over this temperature will cause oxidation of the carbon material.

Race fans may think a bike’s brakes are more susceptible to overheating after going 200 miles an hour down a long straight before braking heavily into a tight corner. However, Tombolan says this is not the case.

“Having a long straight for us is also helpful because when you reach high velocity, high speed, the carbon disc is reaching a lot of air flow, helping to cool [the brakes] down,” Tombolan says.

Tracks like Spielberg and Motegi have lots of corners bunched together, which means more repetitive braking zones that increase a brake’s temperature faster. “In this way, the carbon disc doesn’t have time to dissipate the heat. So, the average temperature will stay up, and this is where the trouble comes in,” says Tombolan.

Understanding Hydraulic Brakes

There are two main braking systems when it comes to motorcycles and powersport vehicles: mechanical braking systems and hydraulic braking systems. Mechanical brakes involve wires to trigger braking mechanisms, while hydraulic brakes use pressurized brake fluid to apply pressure to a wheel assembly.

Hydraulic brakes are the preference of many riders. “Today, most brake systems are hydraulic,” says Midtgaard-Jorgensen. “The wire in mechanical systems has a disadvantage in that it can tear and break.”

Related: Tech Tips: Drum Brakes

The pressurized brake fluid is vital to the performance of any braking system and is measured using the international Department of Transportation (DOT) rating. “The international DOT rating is referring to the temperature stability, also known as the wet and dry boiling point characteristics, of the brake fluid,” explains Midtgaard-Jorgensen. “The higher the DOT, the higher the boiling point.”

Most casual riding scenarios only require a brake fluid with a DOT 3 or DOT 4. For racing, Midtgaard-Jorgensen says the boiling point of a brake fluid should match its temperature level. Most racing brake fluid is recommended to have at least a DOT 4, DOT 5 or DOT 5.1 to keep up with faster speeds.

Most importantly, brake fluid needs to be clean, and it needs to be bled for air. Midtgaard-Jorgensen says, “If you do not do this, you risk getting a swampy, inconsistent brake experience, which reduces the brake effect and positive rider experience.”

Anti-lock Braking Systems

Everyone knows the dangers that come with riding a motorcycle or powersports vehicle. Racing takes that danger to the extreme. Nonetheless, the imminent threats of riding motorcycles and powersport vehicles have made rider safety a priority for manufacturers.

A big part of increasing rider safety comes from anti-lock braking systems (ABS). Like a car, these systems prevent braking systems from locking up, allowing riders to maintain control of their vehicles. These systems are very useful on wet roads and trails.

“Especially useful in intense and slippery brake scenarios, ABS brake systems are known to improve the riding experience as the automated brake pressure adjustment eliminates the manual pumping of the brakes,” explains Midtgaard-Jorgensen.

On old vehicles, riders would have to rapidly activate their brakes to keep their rides from sliding. ABS brake systems now do that automatically, and they can pump brakes much faster than a human’s hand or foot can to regain vehicle control.

Brakes are a critical component of motorcycles and powersports vehicles. Their effectiveness depends on various factors, and the science of brakes continues to evolve. Whether it’s navigating city streets, tackling off-road terrain or pushing the limits on a racetrack, understanding the science behind brakes is pivotal for both performance and safety.

The post The Science of Brakes appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

One of the major benefits of EVs is that they require less maintenance than their combustion counterparts, because there are no carburetors to clean, no valves to adjust and no intake leaks to chase. However, this does not mean they are maintenance-free. Let’s examine some of the maintenance points for these vehicles.

Batteries, Plugs and Chargers

The batteries are everyone’s first concern, but they require surprisingly little maintenance. Most EVs use some form of a lithium-ion battery. Unlike previous batteries, these do not have a memory and do not need to be drained before recharging. When you are done using the vehicle, simply plug it back in and fully recharge it. The chargers monitor the battery capacity as they charge, and when the battery is at 100%, the charger will switch to a “maintain” level to keep the battery there. This means you can leave the vehicle plugged in until you are ready to use it, unless the manufacturer states otherwise.

One aspect you should take a look at is the maintenance of those plugs and chargers. It is good to regularly inspect the charging plugs and receptacles for corrosion, structural damage or debris inside the plug. Corrosion and weak connector tension are the technician’s biggest concerns. Corrosion in the connector can result from age and moisture, which is a bigger concern in areas with higher constant humidity, like coastal cities in the Southeast.

The connectors can be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. It is not advisable to use other types of aerosol cleaners, like brake cleaner, as many of them can damage the rubber or plastics on the connectors, causing premature failure of the charging plug. Electrical contact cleaner evaporates quickly, reducing the risk of moisture inside the plug after cleaning. If you must clean the plug with a tool, use something made of a softer metal to minimize damage to the electrical connectors. The spring tension of the connectors is also extremely important, so be careful not to bend or overly move the connectors inside the plug.

If you have a plug with chronic moisture or corrosion issues, consider applying dielectric grease inside the plug. This non-conductive grease will keep moisture out of the electrical connector. Some plugs have connectors with high spring tension, and the dielectric grease will help lubricate these connectors to prevent wear and failure. However, be sure to clean off any excess grease, because dirt will stick to it and eventually end up inside the connector.

When cleaning dirt-oriented vehicles, people often use pressure washers. While the connectors are sealed to withstand the water and moisture encountered while riding in the rain or off-road, they are not designed to withstand a direct blast from a pressure washer. It’s difficult to convince owners not to use a pressure washer, so as a technician, it’s important to ensure the seals on all connectors are in good condition.

Tips for Accessorizing EVs

The latest trend with touring motorcycles and UTVs is to add additional lights and sound systems. While individual LED lights do not draw a lot of power, adding enough of them can result in a notable current draw. Stereos, especially amplifiers, draw a significant amount of electrical power. This can drain the battery faster, overload the conductors and cause connector failure — or even an electrical fire. Therefore, it’s crucial to ensure you do not exceed the capacity of the electrical connector or the wire/conductors when adding accessories. General electrical theory suggests gauging the wire to 125% of your maximum electrical draw. You will have to check with the manufacturer of the plug to determine the electrical load capacity of the plug.

If customers are interested in adding stereos, amps, lights and other accessories, it can be overwhelming to choose from all the options. It might be advisable to consider assembling a package that customers can purchase for their vehicle. This could save on future headaches of accessory installations, and if it becomes popular, bulk pricing for the shop could be an option.

Battery Temperature

Battery temperature can affect charging and battery life. It’s best to avoid having the battery in direct sunlight while charging. The sun can heat the battery, and charging can also produce heat, both of which can shorten the battery’s life.

Related: 6 Tips for Keeping an Electric Vehicle Performing Well in Hot Weather

Additionally, EV cooling systems, transaxles and differential or gearbox inspections are all still necessary maintenance points. Although EV components are not exposed to as much heat, they still endure similar wear and abuse, so these should be serviced at the same intervals as a combustion engine vehicle. These gearboxes still require case ventilation, and regular inspection is easy to overlook. On dirt applications, it is wise to check the gearbox case breathers to ensure they are free of dirt and have proper airflow.

While EVs require less maintenance than their combustion counterparts, they are not maintenance-free. As these vehicles develop and advance, additional maintenance points may arise. It’s important to stay updated on the latest EV tech, so continue to visit MPN for more information.

The post EVs Are Not Maintenance-Free appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

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Choosing Your Canvas: Starter Motorcycles

As a beginner, selecting the right motorcycle to serve as your canvas is crucial. Opt for an inexpensive starting point, such as a Yamaha XS650 or an older Harley-Davidson Sportster. These models are popular among custom builders due to their affordability and ample customization potential.

Kody Urig started with a 2001 Sportster as a baseline for his build, and the finished product looks completely different from the stock bike.

“Some friends basically told me how cool the Sportster was and how the platform is versatile,” Urig said. “I started upgrading and cleaning it up, and now it’s its own beast.”

What was once a classic-looking chopper is now a dirt-bike-esque off-road racer with a raised front end, off-road tires, TC Bros MX bars on custom brass risers and a 3-D printed headlight cover, among other additions.

Take your time to explore other custom bikes for inspiration and define the style and features you want to incorporate into your project. Remember that your choice of starter motorcycle can significantly influence the direction and complexity of your custom build.

Building your Tool Arsenal

Before embarking on your custom motorcycle project, assembling the right tools is essential. The saying, “There’s more than one way to skin a cat,” holds true in the world of custom motorcycle building.

As a beginner, you can start with a basic set of tools. Common hand tools, such as wrenches, Allen keys (both SAE and metric, depending on manufacturer), pliers, wire cutters, a dead-blow hammer and screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead), are indispensable companions in your custom bike-building journey. Investing in quality tools within your budget is crucial, as they will become your trusted allies throughout the project. Remember, skimping on tools often leads to frustration down the road.

For most applications, new owners can buy complete toolsets from hardware stores that will have most of what they need for a job. Of course, a service manual will come in handy when assessing if specialty tools will be required if upgrading a motorcycle that isn’t being built from the ground up.

Building a custom motorcycle requires precision, especially when it comes to tightening fasteners to specific torque specifications. This is where torque wrenches become invaluable. While a foot-pound torque wrench is typically sufficient, having both foot-pound and inch-pound torque wrenches can be beneficial for specific tasks.

Investing in a reliable set of torque wrenches is a wise choice; these tools are not areas where you should cut corners. Ensuring that components are properly torqued is crucial for safety and performance. Many an oil pan have been cracked from tradesman tightening bolts too tight; don’t make this mistake if you want to save time and money.

Welding

While welding skills can enhance your custom bike project, don’t let a lack of experience deter you. The majority of the build can be accomplished without welding. If welding becomes necessary, you have two options:

1. Seeking professional help: Experienced welders can assist you, and their services are often affordable. This option also provides a fantastic opportunity to learn and collaborate. Don’t hesitate to ask them to share their knowledge and techniques.
2. Do-it-yourself (DIY) welding: Alternatively, you can invest in a stick or MIG welder. These machines are surprisingly affordable, and with the wealth of information available on platforms like YouTube, you can quickly acquire the basic welding skills you need. Consider adding a grinder to your toolkit, as it’s essential for smoothing and finishing welded joints.

If you have the funds, seeking professional help in this regard is probably the best route. People like Steve Garn of Brew Bikes have a heap of knowledge and experience in this regard.

“I’ve been building custom bicycle and motorcycle frames for decades and welding them up nice. A lot of the time, people give me free reign to do what I want, and other times they’re much more specific on what they want built. It depends on the person.”

Organized Workspace for Efficiency

Creating a well-organized workspace is vital for a smooth and enjoyable custom motorcycle building process. While some passionate enthusiasts have crafted show bikes in unconventional spaces like living rooms, it’s not a recommended approach for practical reasons.

Take inspiration from professional race teams, who maintain clean and organized workspaces to maximize efficiency and reduce frustration. Inevitably, you will encounter moments when you misplace a bolt or tool, but an organized workspace minimizes such occurrences, ensuring that your project remains enjoyable and stress-free.

It will also be necessary (depending on what specifically you’re doing to the motorcycle) to have some sort of lift available. Many motorcycles have a center stand, which makes wheel removal/replacement and other lower-end jobs a lot easier. Having a motorcycle lift or hydraulic jack is even better, although much more expensive.

Utilize Your Resources

Building a custom motorcycle has never been more accessible, thanks to the wealth of information available online. The internet offers a treasure trove of valuable resources, including instructional videos, forums and websites like Lowbrow Customs.

These platforms provide comprehensive guides, tutorials and access to a wide range of parts and tools to support your custom motorcycle project. Leveraging these resources can accelerate your learning curve and help you overcome challenges along the way.

If you’re a little less mechanical and just learning the ropes, businesses like Skidmark Garage can be a godsend. It’s a community garage where you can store your bike and work on it if you don’t have the space. There’s also a wealth of knowledge available at your fingertips with different classes you can take to hone your skills.

Embarking on the journey of crafting a custom motorcycle is a fulfilling and exciting endeavor. It provides a platform to express your creativity, learn new skills and transform your vision into a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. Armed with the right tools, meticulous research, dedication and the support of online resources, you can navigate the challenges of custom motorcycle building with confidence.

The post Tips for Custom Motorcycle Building appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

Park in the Shade

Many people skip parking in the shade if it means a slightly longer walk to the supermarket entrance or puts their vehicles out of direct line of sight from their office windows. While it may seem obvious, parking in the shade on a hot day is good for all vehicles. 

This extra cover is particularly important for EVs. Parking in the shade or using a cover can help reduce the temperature inside the vehicle and protect the battery from overheating. According to the National Renewable Energy Laboratory, parking an electric car in direct sunlight can cause the battery temperature to increase by up to 12 degree Fahrenheit, while parking in the shade can keep the battery temperature at or below the ambient temperature.

Keep the Battery Charged to 80%

High temperatures can cause an EV battery to degrade faster, reducing its overall lifespan. By keeping the battery fully charged, you can help prevent unnecessary wear and tear and ensure that your vehicle has the power it needs to perform well in hot weather. 

According to Tesla, keeping a battery charged between 20% and 80% can help prolong its lifespan, while letting it sit at a high state of charge for extended periods can cause it to degrade faster.

Use Air Conditioning Sparingly

While it may be tempting to blast the air conditioning (AC) on full power during hot weather, doing so can have a negative impact on your EV’s range. According to the Union of Concerned Scientists, running the AC on high can reduce the range of an electric vehicle by up to 25%. 

Instead, try to use the AC conservatively and turn it off when it is not needed. Try pre-cooling the car before you enter, which can help reduce the amount of time needed to run the AC.

Monitor Tire Pressure

Electric vehicles require less maintenance than gas ones, so it’s easy to forget that they still need some attention. 

Hot weather can cause your tires to expand, which can lead to overinflation and reduce an EV’s range. To prevent this, monitor the tire pressure regularly and adjust it as needed. You can find the recommended tire pressure for your EV in the owner’s manual or on the sticker inside the driver’s side door. While not a huge savings, keeping the tires inflated improves overall efficiency by about 3%, according to a study by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory. Why not make every bit count?

Avoid Rapid Charging in Extreme Heat

While rapid charging can be convenient, it can also cause your battery to overheat in extreme heat. According to a study by the Idaho National Laboratory, charging an electric vehicle at high temperatures can cause the battery to degrade faster and lose capacity more quickly than charging at lower temperatures. 

Whenever possible, avoid rapid charging an EV during the hottest part of the day or in extreme heat conditions. Instead, plan charging sessions for cooler times of day or use a slower charging method.

Maintain Your Electric Vehicle’s Cooling System

EV cooling systems are designed to keep the battery at a moderate temperature and prevent overheating. Regular maintenance is the key to ensuring your vehicle’s cooling system is working properly. Advice on how often to check the cooling system varies widely, but the general range is every 30,000 to 80,000 miles or every five years. This inspection should include checking the coolant levels, inspecting the cooling fans and replacing any worn or damaged parts.

The summer sun is lovely but definitely can take its toll on electric vehicles. Protect EVs from those hot rays all summer long. By taking the hot weather seriously, you can significantly improve your electric vehicle’s performance and longevity, throughout summer and beyond.

Kate Harrison is the co-founder and Head of Marketing at MoveEV, a first-of-its-kind EV transition company powered by an AI-backed green tech solution that helps organizations and municipalities convert fleet and employee-owned gas vehicles to electric and take advantage of federal, state and local tax incentives. With more than a decade of experience as a serial entrepreneur and seasoned marketer, Kate has worked with small businesses, nonprofits and government organizations to make the world a better place. She is a best-selling author, thought leader and frequent speaker at conferences and events, sharing her insights and experiences with others who are working to create a more sustainable future.

The post 6 Tips for Keeping an Electric Vehicle Performing Well in Hot Weather appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

Now I’m no stranger to personal watercraft (PWC), but I had never worked on anything quite this big before. I grew up mostly working on 650cc two-cylinder Kawasaki Jet Skis, of which my father and I owned quite a few. They were slow and unreliable but cheap to buy and maintain. I had learned quite a bit working on those smaller jet skis over the years, but I’d soon find out that Project X had a few surprises in store for me.

Diagnosing Big Blue

I came to MPN after Season 1 (where the team tackled a 2007 Polaris Sportsman 800 ATV) had wrapped up, though I did have an opportunity to ride the 800 Sportsman for a bit. When I found out that Season 2 would involve a PWC, I was very excited, and I knew I wanted to be involved in the project! The PWC was already selected, so we set out to plan exactly what work we would try to accomplish in our relatively short timeline. It was a tall task, but we had a talented team of professionals, and we were confident that we could make it happen.

Episodes 1 and 2 were filmed without a hitch. We introduced the FX SVHO and the owners Dean and Jed, and then we talked a bit about what we were going to try and achieve with the project. “Big Blue,” as we affectionately called it, was a powerful machine, but it was in need of some mechanical rehab. The paint finish showed plenty of dings, blemishes and scratches, but to us that just meant that it was being used. The speedometer wasn’t working at the time, and Dean and Jed had noticed some oil was burning. So, we knew what we needed to keep an eye out for once we started working on the engine.

Tear Down and Reassembly

In Episode 3, our own Joe Keene, automotive content video producer, started out by removing the engine from Big Blue, which I can tell you was no small task. It took a ton of effort to get that engine to come out, and I tip my hat to Joe! Once the engine was on the work bench, he started working on disassembling it. Using a factory service manual—which was about as clear as mud to read (think terribly Chinese translated text)—we ran into our first snag. Trying to remove the drive coupler from the back of the engine proved to be too much for one person to do alone, so Eric Garbe, our senior automotive technical writer, and I came in to lend a few extra hands. With a bit more manpower, we were able to get the engine torn down the rest of the way, and we were ready to shift our focus back onto the hull.

Episode 4 is all about the trim and steering cables. These cables are maintenance-free, but they’ll still need to be replaced from time to time. They can be a real challenge when it comes to sneaking them out with the engine still in place, but since ours was already removed, this proved to be a pretty easy task. We talked about how to replace both cables, install the new ones, and how to adjust them so they work perfectly. As an added bonus, I discovered that the speedometer pickup had been sheared off, which definitely explains why the speedometer wasn’t working! We added that to the list of parts we needed to replace and kept moving forward.

Eric and Joe filmed Episode 5 together while reassembling the rotating assembly. The crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons were all replaced and measured, and then everything was torqued down in accordance with the service information. That was a really, really long day of shooting for those guys. There was a ton of work that went into this episode!

I took the reins for Episode 6 and spent the next few days removing the jet pump and replacing the impeller. Let me tell you, I was unprepared for how much of a fight this job would be. Just getting the jet pump out of the hull was a challenge, but then I needed to loosen the impeller and remove it from the driveshaft. This proved to be way more than what I could accomplish alone, so we reached out to a nearby shop to lend a hand. With the old impeller removed, I went ahead and rebuilt the bearings and seals inside the jet pump housing. I ended up needing to improvise some tooling and creative solutions to get it done, but it all went relatively smoothly. Then I wrapped up the episode by installing the new cast aluminum impeller that SBT had sent over to us.

Joe took over for Episode 7 and worked through rebuilding the cylinder head. This included removing the valve springs and valves, inspecting all of the components and replacing them. He then wrapped up the episode by installing the cylinder head onto the engine block and torquing everything to specification.

I came back in front of the camera for Episode 8, where I rebuilt the intermediate housing and driveshaft. This is the small driveshaft that connects between the rear coupler on the engine and the impeller. There are a few bearings and seals inside of this aluminum housing, and again, I had no idea how challenging it would be. But with some improvised tools and creativity, we got the drivetrain work all wrapped up.

Episode 9 features Joe installing the camshafts and setting base timing on the engine. I reassemble the jet pump in Episode 10, and I changed over to a stainless steel aftermarket impeller. Now it was time to start putting Big Blue back together again! Joe took over for Episode 11 and worked his tail off to get the freshly rebuilt engine back into the hull. Then in Episode 12, we see Big Blue get some cosmetic upgrades. We stripped off the old, beat-up mats; removed all of the decals; and wrapped the entire hull with an eye-popping orange! New mats and a banging sound system came next, and then the transformation was complete.

Episode 13 was bittersweet to film. We gave the jet ski back to Dean and Jed, and we got to record their reaction to seeing the finished product. This entire project was such a great experience for all of us, and I can’t wait to do it all again sometime in the future!

Lessons Learned

Looking back on this project, I can say I definitely learned a few things. Much of my past experience with PWC was with much smaller, far less powerful two-cylinder machines. We’re only talking about engines with 40 to 50 horsepower, which is a far cry from the 300 horsepower that the FX SVHO makes. As a result, everything on the FX SVHO was bigger, beefier, stronger and tighter. This, of course, makes a lot of sense. The driveline would need to be beefier in order to handle that sort of power.

I noticed another striking difference while working on Big Blue: It seemed like every single nut, bolt and fastener had thread locking compound on it. I suppose this is also to be expected, given how much power the engine makes. With all of that power comes noise, vibration and harshness (NVH), not to mention the increased speeds the FX SVHO is capable of reaching. Fasteners will be subjected to extreme stress, and they need to remain tight and hold the various components in place at all times. Whether it was thread locking compound or thread sealing compound, I found myself needing to really take my time whenever I was removing fasteners, especially in the area of the jet pump. Better to take my time and be careful to avoid stripping or pulling threads out of an aluminum housing!

So, what sort of machine should we work on next time? Let us know — we’d love to hear what you want to see!

The post Rebuilding the Engine of a Yamaha FX SVHO appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

1. Go to School

New motorcycle riders have a lot to learn when they hop atop their first bikes. Safety must take priority; novice riders should remember that knowledge is power. Actively seeking out the information necessary to inform safe riding decisions is essential. A riding course will provide this important safety training as well as introduce riders to the basics of how a motorcycle works and the rules of the road.

Taking a riding course may even save you money; many states offer discounted insurance for riders who complete certified courses, making it clear that rider education pays off.

2. Get Comfortable with the Bike Before Taking It on the Road

No matter how much you know about the rules of the road, if you’re unfamiliar with the motorcycle itself, it’s easy to get into trouble. Before you hit the highway, make sure you’re comfortable with how your bike functions and are confident about using it. Get to know how your bike handles, what the brakes feel like and how it responds to different inputs. Practice in an empty parking lot or on a closed course before doing any serious road riding. This will help to ensure your safety and the safety of those around you.

3. Ride Defensively and Be Aware of your Surroundings

Compared to larger vehicles, motorcycles don’t have the same protection. As such, it’s important for riders to stay alert and aware of their surroundings — especially when it comes to other drivers. Defensive driving techniques, such as scanning ahead and maintaining an appropriate following distance, can help riders to anticipate potential dangers and avoid them. Be especially aware of cars making left-hand turns, as drivers may not be expecting to see a motorcycle.

4. Always Wear Your Helmet and Other Protective Gear

A helmet is the most important piece of safety equipment for a motorcyclist. It can save your life in the event of an accident. Invest in a high-quality, properly fitting helmet and wear additional protective gear such as gloves, boots and reflective clothing when riding. This can help to protect you in the event of a crash and make sure your ride is as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

5. Obey Speed Limits

Riding too fast is one of the primary causes of motorcycle accidents. You should never exceed the posted speed limit, as this can be dangerous and even deadly. Even experienced riders can benefit from slowing down and appreciating the scenery rather than rushing through a ride. Take your time and enjoy it.

6. Avoid Bad Weather Conditions

Rain, snow, ice and strong wind can all make riding a motorcycle tricky. Poor weather conditions can reduce traction on the road and impair visibility, making it difficult to ride. It’s best to avoid riding in bad weather conditions, if possible, or wait for the weather to improve before heading out, especially for new riders.

7. Check Your Bike Before Each Ride

As a new rider, it is incredibly important to remember to check your bike before every single ride. Doing basic maintenance and upkeep checks can go a long way in preventing any equipment malfunctions and potentially dangerous situations. At the very least, always inspect your bike for air pressure levels in the tires, chain condition and tension, braking system state, wheel alignment and road worthiness.

8. Pay Attention When Cornering

Cornering is one of the trickiest maneuvers for new riders to learn, but it’s also one of the most important. Make sure to keep your head up, look ahead and lean into the turn to maintain balance. Always use brakes judiciously, and don’t try to take a corner at too high of a speed. Remember: Slow and steady wins the race.

9. Get Your Mind Right

No matter how much you’ve practiced, the mental part of riding is just as important. Riding a motorcycle can be overwhelming for new riders, and it’s easy to let fear take over. To help keep your nerves in check, focus on staying relaxed and taking deep breaths. Stay positive, stay focused, and be confident in your riding skills.

10. Survey the Road Ahead

Before embarking on a ride, always take some time to survey the road ahead. Look for potential hazards, such as potholes, debris and uneven surfaces. Taking a few minutes to plan your route can help you anticipate any potential issues and be better prepared to react if needed.

The post 10 Crucial Tips for New Motorcycle Riders appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

Are you experiencing an engine back fire with your snowmobile? There could be a couple culprits, but chief among them are spark plugs that are likely overdue for a change. This video is sponsored by Autolite.

The post Snowmobile Engine Backfires and Spark Plugs appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

There’s a check list you’ll want to ensure you go through prior to getting your snowmobile out for a new season. Among those items are your spark plugs and ensuring your plugs are ready for some snow-filled fun. This video is sponsored by Autolite.

The post Prepping Your Sled for the Season and the Importance of Spark Plugs appeared first on Motorcycle & Powersports News.

Clean, Dry and Shiny

With exhaust systems featuring a variety of different finishes — from stainless steel to chrome to titanium — you might be wondering if there’s a special way to clean each of those metals. The good news is, there’s one simple method to rule them all.

The first step, and hopefully most obvious step, is to make sure it is fully cooled down. Next, plug up the muffler to keep water out of it. “Most, if not all, aftermarket exhaust systems use fiberglass packing. And when that fiberglass packing gets wets, the next time you start it, it’s really, really hard on the packing and it could prematurely cause the packing to wear out,” Tim Welch, sales manager at Yoshimura R&D of America, says.

Now, you can finally wash it, and all the experts agree: Just use soap and water when cleaning the exhaust system.

“Most exhaust systems are made with materials that, while they’re really durable, those shiny finishes can be fragile. Things like road salt, chemicals, lye from concrete, etc., that can etch and damage those surfaces. Some popular metal polishes and cleaners have really caustic acids in them that are good for chrome but really bad for stainless steel or aluminum and even the resin in carbon fiber,” Welch explains.

In addition, using a metal polish on an exhaust system with a special coating on it is liable to ruin the finish. The only exception to this rule would be using a chrome polish on chrome pipes.

Repacking

Cleaning is a simple but important maintenance task to making sure a bike stays in working order. However, when it comes to exhaust, the most important factor is keeping the bike tuned correctly so it’s not running too lean and repacking the mufflers.

Welch adds that losing as little as 50 grams of packing — a very minimal amount — creates measurable differences in the power difference/dyno.  But how can you tell when it’s time to repack? There are a number of indicators:

• The muffler starts to get loud.
• You see heat spots or discoloration.
• The pipes are rattling.

How often should you repack the muffler? It’s an arbitrary question, because it depends on the rider’s style as well as the machine. For instance, Welch recalls that his company once had two factory Suzuki motocross racers on identical machines under its roof. For one racer, his muffler would last about four hours during practice; the other racer could go about 30 hours before his mufflers needed to be repacked.

“It’s like a clutch. It depends on how much you use it, what gear you ride in, what conditions you’re riding in, the state of tune your motorcycle [is in],” Welch notes. “Really, you just have to pay attention to the signs: the heat signs, the sound signs. If it feels like it’s down on power, check it out.”

Furthermore, Welch offers this advice to riders — off-roaders especially: Weigh your exhaust system’s new muffler right after buying it. Then, every time you wash or maintain the bike, pull the muffler off and weigh it again. If it’s a hundred grams lighter, get it repacked. Some aftermarket manufacturers offer a repacking service, so customers can send in the exhaust system to be torn down and rebuilt like new.

Finally, it’s a good idea to periodically check the clamps and fasteners to make sure everything is tightened up properly. Since a combustion engine vibrates with high frequency and the exhaust is mounted right to it, that vibration travels across the whole system and can loosen fasteners over time.

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